Things to Know About Antique Jewellery

Buying, selling or just admiring Antique Jewellery can be an exciting and rewarding experience. However, there are a few things to know before you jump in.

Look for markings inside the jewellery – this is often an indication that it is handmade, rather than mass-produced like today’s jewellery. This may include hallmarks or marks that show the metal type used.

Origins

Antique jewellery is often steeped in rich history and surrounded by myths and legends. From the glittering court jewels of European monarchies to exotic treasures from Southeast Asia, there is a lot to discover about these ancient pieces.

Despite their allure, antiques can be difficult to categorize. Luckily, there are guidelines that help distinguish antique jewellery from pieces that simply evoke the style of an era.

For instance, the Victorian era covers anything that was made while Queen Victoria was in power between 1837-1901. It’s important to know what to look for when buying antique jewellery so you can be sure you are purchasing a genuine piece from this era rather than something that is merely Victorian-inspired. You should also be wary of jewelry that is labeled as being “vintage” or “antique-style.” These terms usually denote a modern production that has been fabricated to mimic the silhouettes and materials of antique jewellery. This can be easily identified by an expert jeweller.

Styles

During this period, bold, chunky styles with arrays of gems grabbed the attention of the people. Diamonds took a back seat to brightly colored, less expensive stones like citrines and tourmalines. Providence Vintage Jewelry has many pieces of this era that still captivate today’s buyer.

Victorian jewellery designs expanded upon Georgian motifs but were eclectic and displayed a penchant for revivalist motifs. They often included somber characteristics like seed pearls to represent tears, a nod to Queen Victoria’s mourning for her late husband. Mourning brooches and stickpins were also popular during this time and featured miniature portraits of loved ones or “memento mori” designs – literal reminders of mortality.

Remember, for a piece of jewellery to be considered antique it has to be over 100 years old. If you see a piece described as vintage or antique but is merely inspired by or replicates the style of a particular era it may not be authentic and should be priced accordingly.

Materials

Jewelry is made from a variety of materials. The quality of the metal and gems used can affect the value of a piece. It can also be influenced by the design, craftsmanship and history of the piece.

The Victorian era jewelry designs were inspired by nature. Engraved flowers, leaves and insects were popular along with carved gemstones and cameo brooches. Gemstones were more vibrant in color during this era. Garnets, amethyst and opals were popular along with Colombian emeralds and topaz.

The Arts and Crafts jewelers favored simplicity of style. They wanted to return to traditional hand craftsmanship and a simpler way of life. The movement was short-lived, but its influence on jewelry was profound. The Art Nouveau movement overlapped with the Victorian era, so there was cross-pollination of styles.

Value

The age of the piece and the era it represents are crucial when determining its value. Authentic antique jewellery can be distinguished from modern pieces by the superior level of craftsmanship and attention to detail. It is also worth noting if the piece has any cultural or symbolic significance, which can increase its desirability and price.

Look at the metal and gemstones to determine the era in which the jewellery was made. Look for hallmarks, patent numbers and other clues that indicate its authenticity. The style of clasps can also help pin point its era. The shape of the gems can also identify specific eras. For example, diamonds with an “old mine cut” or European cut are no longer produced and therefore have a higher value.

Pay special attention to the underside of the jewellery to see if there are any hallmarks on this side as well. This is an indication that the piece was crafted by hand, as opposed to the large-scale manufacturing processes that became popular in the middle of the previous century.